Ancient
Sites
Bonane
is a beautiful valley situated in the picturesque south west of
Ireland. The valleys perimeter is surrounded by the Sheehy and Caha
mountains. It is situated on the main Kenmare to Glengarriff road
(N71).
Bonane
is steeped in ancient history being home to over 250 archaeological
sites, this identifies Bonane as having one of the highest concentrations
of sites in the country. More importantly, recent studies show many
of these sites are interrelated and some have major astronomical
significance.
Further
research will identify the area to compliment if not equal other
areas of national and international significance such as the Boyne
Valley in Co. Meath, Lough Gur in Co. Limerick and the Ceide Fields
in Co. Mayo.
Stone
Circle
The
stone circle is situated in the townland of Dromagorteen and is
one of the finest examples in the Cork/Kerry region. One of its
most striking features is its vantage point overlooking the valley.
It is known locally as the “Judge and Jury” as it consists of thirteen
stones with a central bolder burial. It is the centrepiece of a
complex astronomical calendar, which includes both solar and lunar
cycles. Monuments on the horizon mark the rising and setting of
the moon on significant dates. An imaginary axis drawn from these
points to the stone circle reveals the astonishing fact that many
of the monuments in the valley are on or close to these radial lines.
The
Rolls of Butter/Petrified Dairy
The
Rolls of Butter is a multiple bullaun stone situated adjacent to
the Drom-Fiachna Cemetery in the townland of Garranes. It is one
of the most significant Stone Age monuments in Western Europe.
The
bullaun stone itself is a flat-topped rock embedded in the ground
at one end, about two metres square with eight holes or bullauns
on its surface. Two of the holes are merely slight indentations;
the others are good-sized cavities. In each bullaun is a smooth
oval shaped stone, locally known as the Rolls of Butter (click here
for legend). In the middle of the rock there is a quern stone with
another oval shaped stone standing in its centre.
Sun
alignment
The
proximity of the bullaun stone to the present day St. Fiachna Cemetery
is also significant. The cemetery generally regarded as one of the
oldest Christian burial places, still in use in Ireland, almost
certainly predates Christianity. The western boundary of the ancient
cemetery with its highly important “kink” together with the bullaun
stone form a perfect alignment with the rising sun at the winter
solstice (the mid winter sunrise – 21 st December).
It
has been observed that on this date, the shortest day of the year,
the rising sun seems to ‘climb’ up along the side of a nearby mountain
in a rolling fashion. The full disk becoming visible as it reaches
the summit. This spectacle can be observed as you walk along the
boundary of the cemetery to the bullaun stone.
Amazingly
the mountain top, the bullaun stone, the boundary of the cemetery
and the stone circle form a perfect alignment.
Star
patterns
Link
with Egypt
Ancient
Egyptians and indeed most ancient civilisations believed the sun
and stars to be their gods. In Egypt the chief god was Orion (Osiris),
which is the most distinct consolation of stars in the night sky.
His wife Sirius (Isis) the brightest star and their son Horus the
sun god. Horus was believed to be part of his father Orion and was
seen in the night sky as a bird depicted by the stars on the lower
half of Orion and two associated stars. Amazingly this set of stars
mirror image the pattern of the bullauns on the stone we call “The
Rolls of Butter”, the brighter stars are represented by the deeper
bullauns.
Dating
the stone
The
stars rise at a different position in the sky today as they did
in the Stone Age. Thanks to the aid of a computer program “Sky Map”
it was possible to determine when the star in the middle of the
constellation (The Orion Nubla) rose at the same position as the
mid-winter sun, It was 3,427 BC. To our further amazement we learned
that Sirius also rose at this point at that time.
Court
tombs
Court
tombs are believed to be the oldest communal burials surviving in
Ireland, dating from about 5,000 BC. This type of tomb is mostly
found in the northern half of the country so the existence of one
in Bonane, where wedge-tombs predominate, suggests very early habitation.
The
typical court tomb has an elongated cairn of small stones leading
to a court of roughly circular shape. A stone burial chamber opens
from the inner end of the court and consists of a gallery of two
or more chambers.
The
court tome at Milleens is set in a cluster of other monuments, including
a bullaun stone, and is within easy walking distance of the N71.
Wedge
tombs
These
megalithic tombs are characterised as having a gallery constructed
with side stones, which decrease in height from the entrance, and
are either parallel or give it a wedge shaped appearance. They are
roofed with large stones, which sit directly on the walls of the
gallery and are frequently oriented east – west and a single stone
often closes the entrance. Generally they date from the late Neolithic
or Early Bronze Age. There are many fine examples in Bonane.
Standing
stones
Standing
stones, or gallaun (gallan), are the simplest and most numerous
megalithic monuments found in Ireland. These Monoliths are merely
large oblong shaped stones, often weighing several tonnes, set upright
in the ground. They could have been erected for a variety of purposes
and may have marked boundaries or burial sites.
Stone
rows
Stone
rows consist of two or more standing stones, and are sometimes aligned
to the sunrise or sunset positions on significant days of the year
a good example is at Releigh, Bonane.
Boulder-burials
Boulder-burials,
dating from the Bronze Age, consist of a large cover-stone, or boulder,
resting on three or more low stones, above a shallow pit containing
cremated remains. They are found almost exclusively in the Southwest
of Ireland, the majority occurring in west Cork. They may be found
singly or in small groups, and in some instances they are associated
with stone circles, as in the case of the stone circle at Dromagorteen.
Stone
circles
Stone
circles consist of a ring of free-standing stones or boulders, usually
an uneven number, symmetrically arranged so that one stone, the
axial stone, is set directly opposite the two tallest stones, known
as the portals, marking the entrance to the circle. In many instances
this axis is aligned northeast-southwest, which may be of astronomical
significance. Stone circles are generally regarded as ceremonial
or ritual sites. The stone circle at Dromagorteen, known as the
Judge and Jury, consists of thirteen stones with a central boulder
burial.
Ringforts
Ringforts,
known in Bonane as Liosanna or Raths, are by far the most numerous
and well known of the archaeological remains. Dating from the first
millennium AD they were built as fortified farmsteads to protect
against intruders and predators. Typically, they consist of a circular
enclosure protected by an earthen bank and external foss or ditch.
One of the best examples of a lios or ringfort in Bonane lies within
a few metres of the stone circle at Dromagorteen.
Souterrains
Souterrains
are artificial subterranean structures and are usually associated
with habitation. They are common in ringforts and appear to have
been used as an underground bolthole if a ringfort was attacked
or were used as a secure place to store valuables and perishable
food. They vary in size and complexity and may contain several chambers
with interconnecting creepways. Again souterains are to be found
in and close to the ringfort at Dromagorteen.
Fulachta
Fiadh
Fulachta
Fiadh, or cooking pits, consist of a horseshoe shaped heap of heat-fractured
stones and are usually sited close to a stream or water source.
A pit would be dug and filled with water from the nearby source,
heated stones were then used to boil the water in which meat, wrapped
in straw, was cooked.
There
is a fine example of a fulacht fiadh within a few metres of the
stone circle at Dromagorteen, which would have been the norm for
any ceremonial site.
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